The Most Stolen Vehicle in the U.S. is… (surprise!)

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That hot-looking new Caddy?  The ever-popular Camry?  A car built in the last decade?

How about…

the 1995 Honda Civic

1. 1995 Honda Civic

2. 1991 Honda Accord

3. 1989 Toyota Camry

1995 Honda Civic 4. 1997 Ford F-150 Series Pickup

5. 1994 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Pickup

6. 1994 Acura Integra

7. 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup

8. 1994 Nissan Sentra

9. 1988 Toyota Pickup

10. 2007 Toyota Corolla

If there was ever any question whether it is ‘all about the parts’… Interestingly, the rate of stolen vehicles is  continuing to drop, down an estimated 8.9% last year.

source:

http://www.nicb.org

Honda posts record sales in June

In sharp contrast to most of the rest of the industry, Honda showed a dramatic increase in sales over a year ago in June. Helped by their environment-conscious image and small-car excellence, American Honda sales were up almost 18% over last year. The Honda Civic posted record June sales, and the fuel-efficient Fit had it’s best month ever. And, in what may be nothing more than a sign of the times, the sales of Honda’s premium division Acura were down over 16% from a year ago.

New grading system for J.D. Power car ratings

How does a highly visible report like the annual J.D. Power initial quality scores affect important buyer considerations like value and depreciation?

It seems to vary widely. For instance, Porsches depreciate at roughly the same rate as do other high-end, high-performance  sports cars–rather quickly, VW holds it’s value even though the scores are never very good, and we certainly can’t blame the fall-off-the-table depreciation of Land Rover on poor JDPower scores…it is, after all, a LAND ROVER. Not the most popular style of vehicle these days.

Surprises? Well, anytime the premium nameplate of an automaker has significantly different scores than the non-premium(?) does, it is at least worthy of notice. While Toyota and Lexus seem to rank about where one would think they would, the relationship also seems reassuring. The premium name should rank just a bit higher, shouldn’t it?

So what is up with Acura? And why does Nissan rank so far behind Infiniti?

What else…Hyundai ranks higher than Volvo, Acura and BMW. I remember when these rankings showed nameplates like Hyundai and Kia so far behind the rest of the field that it was clear that the only real selling point was the ‘100000 mile warranty’. Well, that and the MSRP was, like, 15 bucks.

The worst are further behind the norm than the best are ahead of it, so maybe another grading system is needed. How about:

A+: Porsche

A : Infiniti, Lexus, M-Benz, Toyota

B+: Mercury(!), Honda

B : Ford, Jaguar, Audi, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Hyundai, Pontiac, Lincoln

C+: Buick, Acura, Kia

C : Nissan, Volvo, BMW, GMC, Mazda, Volkswagen

C-: Hummer, Subaru

D : Scion, Dodge, Chrysler, Mitsubishi, Saab, Suzuki

F : Saturn, Land Rover, Mini, Jeep

Not too bad! A sliding scale just like in our schools, in order to injure fewer ‘feelings’.

Let’s see…Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep: OUCH  Ford/Mercury/Lincoln: Good on ya!  In fact, it is nice to see such strong performances from U.S. automakers.

So, are these scores reflected in important buyer issues, like depreciation? Not so much.

Perception is all when it comes to depreciation, and the (generally inaccurate) perception that the U.S. is making substandard products will likely continue until several of these fine performances are turned in consecutively.

J.D. Power rankings for initial quality

The latest J.D. Power rankings of initial quality reveals some interesting things to the objective observer. These figures represent the number of problems per 100 vehicles. Here are the 2008 rankings for the 36 top nameplates:

1. Porsche: 87 2. Infiniti: 98 3. Lexus: 99 4. Mercedes-Benz:104 5. Toyota: 104 6. Mercury: 109 7. Honda: 110 8. Ford: 112
9. Jaguar: 112 10. Audi: 113 11. Cadillac: 113 12. Chevrolet:113 13. Hyundai: 114 14. Pontiac: 114 15. Lincoln: 115 16 Buick: 118 —Industry Average: 118
17. Acura: 119 18. Kia: 119 19. Nissan: 124 20. Volvo: 124
21. BMW: 126 22. GMC: 127 23. Mazda: 127 24. Volkswagen: 128
25. Hummer: 132 26. Subaru: 133 27. Scion: 138 28. Dodge: 141 29. Chrysler: 142 30. Mitsubishi: 149 31. Saab: 149
32. Suzuki: 152 33. Saturn: 157 34. Land Rover: 161
35. Mini: 163 36. Jeep: 167

So, Infiniti continues the sensational roll it has been on since the release of the first G35, moving up from 9th in 2007, Land Rover continues in it’s traditional category ‘terrible’, and VW is below average as always despite being the slowest depreciate-or of all( brand loyalty carries some HEAVY weight!).

The rate of improvement in these ratings has been steady for years, and this year it is an impressive 6% overall.

One immediately noticeable fact to a math gee-…um, fan like myself is that the bad ones are REALLY bad, with Saturn, Land Rover, Mini, and Jeep coming out with truly abominable scores.

More on this coming soon…

CAR FU: The Book and The System due July 21st!

A hard but humorous look at the car biz, this book includes the exact system I use to save time and

CAR FU tons of money for my clients. There really is no better way to research and buy a car, and I am not subsidized by any automakers, so my opinions are not ‘tempered’…at all. Just the cold, sometimes brutal facts. This book cannot help but save consumers tens of thousands of dollars over their car-buying lifetime. It will be available initially as a net-only product, with hyperlinks to all key sources and forms. I am very proud of this work, and I look forward to readers reactions and input. I will post reviews here as they are available, both good and (God forbid) bad! It is not always kind and gentle, but it is always the truth…

In the meantime, check out this great video:

for blogging newbies from Mark Joyner

I’m evaluating a multi-media course on blogging from the folks at Simpleology. For a while, they’re letting you snag it for free if you post about it on your blog.

It covers:

  • The best blogging techniques.
  • How to get traffic to your blog.
  • How to turn your blog into money.

I’ll let you know what I think once I’ve had a chance to check it out. Meanwhile, go grab yours while it’s still free.

CAR-FU home course (beta) almost ready

Should be online and ready for test drives by Tuesday, May 6th. Please e-mail info@movinmetal.com for free access in exchange for honest critique. Be kind…

<a href="http://technorati.com/claim/nm9fxhy6d3" rel="me">Technorati Profile</a>

CAR FU: CAR BUYIN’ WOMEN!

Many times I have witnessed a woman drive into a dealership, park, walk around for a while, and finally go up to the receptionist and ask for some assistance. I find this curious, as women directly influence 75% or more of ALL car sales. To watch trained attack-jackals…er, sales associates, virtually ignore her because they believe that she is not the decision-maker is almost surreal. No one can just ‘walk around’ out there!! Who does she think she is?

Why do these professional salespeople, both men and women, often ignore female customers? A lot of it is due to the fact that the auto business is decades behind the rest of the business world in customer service practices, and has shown few signs of catching up. So, maybe they are surprised to see a woman out of the kitchen. Wait until they hear about that whole ‘voting rights’ thing!

The NADA has estimated that a woman will bring along a man with her to buy a car 78% of the time. Is it because she needs to be helped through the negotiations? Does she need to have her trembling hand held as she signs documents? Does “all this money talk” just confuse her? Well…..NO. It is because if she doesn’t bring him, he will blather on and on for weeks– maybe years–about the deal she could have had, if only…..

I support any man who wants to change a tire for a woman (this is one of our inalienable rights, as pack-animals), but to presume to handle the finances and negotiations for ‘the little lady’ is nothing short of ludicrous. In fact, in most deals involving married couples, the woman is in charge of the final decision. Perhaps men instinctively know that we can often become mesmerized by shiny, fast moving objects and make poor decisions. Without the steadying influence of our better halves, many of us would be living outdoors, under a lean-to, foraging for sustenance. Of course, we would have some really cool cars.

Women are particularly sensitive to time-wastin’ and bull-shootin’, and being disrespected on top of it all makes enduring a difficult and expensive process that much more grating and demeaning.

My advice, to any woman who feels that she is not receiving the attention or respect due her, is to simply announce, loudly, that the car is for you, you are the only decision maker, and you want to buy a car TODAY!! That will get their attention! Then, torture them for hours solely for entertainment.

CAR FU: Bigfoot…and other myths

 

Ready for your next car?

Have you been studying up at the websites? Edmunds.com, Kelly Blue Book, etc.? Is it helping you prepare, or is it WAY too much information for anyone to absorb? Let’s simplify this a little bit. Here are some common myths, or “advice” from apparently well-meaning buyer guides that are…well…stupid!

  • “Don’t tell ‘em you have a trade-in until you have agreed on a price for the one you are buying”.

Um…NO. Why would you do that? Besides the fact that lying or misdirecting is an unnatural and uncomfortable process for most people, besides all the time it will cost you–HOURS–as they now have to appraise your trade and put an accurate value on it (while fantasizing about stabbing you in the chest), it has skewed your financing deal because your interest rate quote was based on a certain LTV(loan to value) that has now changed. If you did not work a financing deal, and decided only on a purchase price, you have locked that price in and left only one more negotiable item. It is much easier to try to work the edges of a negotiation when you have another variable. Your trade-in will not suddenly gain (or lose) value. EVER. It is worth what it can be sold for at that moment, never more. Depending on several subtle factors, or the skill(or lack thereof) of the appraiser, one can gain a small monetary advantage or concession on occasion. But when dealers move money from one car to the other, it is because that is what you are telling them you want to see. “Give me more for my trade!” Okay, here you go. “Hey, what happened to that other price?” If you know where the numbers should fall on both vehicles, you will at least be able to squeeze from both sides. Just like they will be doing!

  • “Don’t talk about monthly payment”

Okay, but isn’t that how you work out your own budget? By the month? So, if your main deciding factor is the monthly payment, then perhaps you should mention that. Of course, you have already figured out what your interest rate should be and the term of the loan before you got there, didn’t you? No? We should probably slow things down a bit, then.

By the way, obtaining your own financing will eliminate this step. Why not do that right now?

  • “Beat the dealer”

Huh? How will you beat the dealer? If they sell you a car, they have been successful. That is what they do. If the deal is not advantageous to them, they will not sell you a car. When you enter into any event in your life with the idea that someone else has to lose in order for you to be successful, that event is taking too much from your life-force and should be put on hold.

If you are happy with your deal, if you have the car you want and are paying the amount you determined you could comfortably pay, then you have been successful. Be happy! That is the very definition of winning a car deal, and if you need more evidence that you won, take a victory lap around your neighborhood, around your part of the world. See the sun, the sand, the mountains, the ocean ? Yep, you won.

Oh, yeah...”Bigfoot”? Just a giant prehistoric ape-like creature that lives in the Pacific Northwest. Nothing more.

The Trade-in Blues

The worst thing any car salesman ever has to do is explain to a customer that the car they are trading in isn’t worth much money. Or any money. This is how the conversation often goes:

Sales Manager: “What’s he tradin’ ?”

Salesperson: (handing over a form) “This one here…”

SM: “Ouch. What does he think it’s worth?”

SP: “$11,500.”

SM: “Where did he get that number from?”

SP: “ I dunno. “.

SM: “Let’s open him up a bit…” (scribbles on paper, hands it to SP)

SP: “Oh…oh, no, no, no…you’re kidding, right?”

SM: “Just take it out there. Now.”

The difference between what folks think their cars are worth and what they are actually worth is dramatic. The Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com) assesses the values of cars in various geographical markets. They are very good at what they do, so good that many credit unions use the retail KBB to determine how much to loan on a purchase (CU’s usually use retail numbers for their figgerin’, while banks use wholesale figures), and many dealers use Kelly as a pricing guide.

But one thing that Kelley does not accurately measure–and barely pays lip service to– is the real trade-in value. The problem is this: In the real world, a car is worth exactly what it can be sold for at that very moment in time. The sun goes down, the sun comes up, the car is worth less money.

There is actually another Kelley product, one that many dealerships use to value and manage their used car inventories. Unlike most credit unions, banks base their financing formulas on wholesale value rather than retail, and they respect the numbers issued by this other book enough to base their financing on them. This other book(really a software program) is known as ‘Karpower’, and it takes into full account the costs of reconditioning and the necessary replacement of wear and tear items. It is a far more accurate measure of value….but it is still not the BEST measure of value.

The only real way to determine a cars value is to answer this question: How much can I sell this for in the next ten minutes? Only dealer auctions provide any real-world perspective. Using this criteria, the amount that can be fetched at the next available auction is the actual value of the car (minus costs of transportation and auction personnel).

With the typical labor cost for mechanics at or near a hundred dollars an hour, any bill for any work can run to a thousand dollars or more very easily. The used car department pays the service department for the work, the expense is added to the base cost of the vehicle, and the amount left between the asking price and the amount already invested is the margin. The smaller the margin between the KBB retail price, a price many buyers are well familiar with, and the amount the dealership has invested in the car–how much they are “in it for.”–the less bargaining room they have. In other words, the more they give that guy for his trade-in, the less they will be able to bargain with you on the same car!

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